Teks self-drilling roofing screws are hex washer head fasteners that drill, tap, and fasten metal roofing panels in one motion, sealed by a bonded EPDM washer. The line is made by ITW Buildex. Two families cover almost every job: drill point screws for fastening panels to steel framing, and sharp point screws for fastening panels to wood. Picking the wrong one is the most common reason a Teks screw strips, spins, or leaks.
This guide maps every Teks roofing screw to the substrate and metal thickness it is built for, decodes the drill point numbers, and shows the install settings that keep the EPDM washer sealing instead of blowing out.
What are Teks self-drilling roofing screws?
Teks self-drilling roofing screws are one-piece fasteners with a drill-bit tip, cutting threads, a hex washer head, and a bonded EPDM sealing washer. The tip bores its own hole through metal so no pilot drilling is needed on metal-to-metal work, the threads tap as the screw advances, and the rubber-backed washer compresses against the panel to make the fastener point watertight.
The name comes from the original Teks brand of self-drilling screws, now part of ITW Buildex. In the field, “Teks” is often used as a generic word for any self-drilling metal screw, the same way “tek screw” is used loosely, but the Teks roofing line has specific coatings, points, and washer specs covered below.
Three things separate a roofing Teks screw from a generic self-drilling screw: the external hex washer head that seats a nut driver cleanly, the EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) bonded washer that seals against water, and a corrosion coating rated for outdoor exposure. Miss any one of those and the fastener is not a roofing screw.
Drill point vs sharp point: match the screw to the substrate
The single most important choice is drill point versus sharp point, and it is decided by what the panel screws into. Drill point (self-drilling) Teks screws are for metal-to-metal: they drill through a steel purlin or metal substrate with no pilot hole. Sharp point (self-piercing) Teks screws are for metal-to-wood: the gimlet point pierces the panel and threads into a wood purlin or deck.
Use a drill point screw on wood and the wide drill flute can bore an oversized hole in soft framing and back out. Use a sharp point screw on steel and it cannot cut the metal, so it spins, walks, and burns. Read the box: Teks labels each as “self-drilling drill point” or “sharp point.”
| Substrate | Teks point type | How it works | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Steel purlin or metal frame | Drill point (self-drilling) | Drills its own hole, no pilot needed | Panel to steel building framing |
| Wood purlin or deck | Sharp point (self-piercing) | Pierces panel, threads into wood | Panel to pole barn or wood framing |
| Panel to panel (stitch) | Drill point, short | Drills two thin sheets at a lap | Sidelap and endlap stitch screws |
What do the Teks drill point numbers mean?
Drill point Teks screws are numbered #1 through #5, and the number tells you the maximum steel thickness the point can drill before the threads engage. A higher number means a longer drill flute that clears more metal, so #5 handles the thickest steel. For most exposed-fastener metal roofing over steel purlins, a #3 point is the workhorse.
| Drill point | Drills steel up to | Roofing context |
|---|---|---|
| #1 | about 0.075 in | Light-gauge metal, thin substrates |
| #2 | about 0.110 in | Light steel purlins |
| #3 | about 0.175 in (roughly 12 gauge) | Most metal panel to steel purlin work |
| #4 | about 0.250 in | Heavier structural steel |
| #5 | about 0.500 in | Thick structural steel, beams |
These figures are general industry drill capacities and vary slightly by manufacturer. Match the point to the framing steel, not to the roofing panel: a 26 gauge steel panel is only about 0.018 in thick, but the purlin under it may be 12 gauge or heavier, and the point has to clear that whole stack before the threads bite.
Teks roofing screw sizes and lengths
Teks roofing screws are sold by gauge (shank diameter) and length. The common diameters are #9, #10, #12, and #14, with #12 the default for most residential and agricultural metal panels. Lengths run from 3/4 in for panel-to-metal up to 3 in for panel-through-insulation into deep framing.
| Size | Common length range | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| #9 | 1 in to 1-1/2 in | Light panels, sharp point to wood |
| #10 | 1 in to 2 in | Elite metal-to-wood roofing screws |
| #12 | 3/4 in to 3 in | Standard exposed-fastener panels |
| #14 | 3/4 in to 2 in | Metal-to-metal, heavier holding power |
Length rule: the screw should penetrate the framing by at least three full threads past the far side. For a metal panel over a nailable substrate, a #9 or #10 by 1 in to 1-1/2 in sharp point is standard. For a panel over a rigid board or foam into a purlin, add the insulation thickness to the penetration you need.
Teks roofing screw product lines
ITW Buildex sells Teks roofing screws in three lines. Standard Teks Roofing Screws drill, tap, and fasten in one motion for general panel work. Teks Elite is the premium tier with an upgraded finish and consistent point quality. Standing seam roofing screws are made for the clips and flanges of concealed-fastener standing seam systems, not exposed panels.
- Teks Roofing Screws: the everyday line for corrugated and ribbed panels, hex washer head with EPDM washer, drill point or sharp point.
- Teks Elite Premium: higher-grade coating and point, aimed at longer service life on exposed roofs.
- Standing Seam Screws: pancake or low-profile heads sized for clip and flange attachment under a concealed seam.
Coatings and washers: what keeps a Teks screw from leaking
Two features decide whether a Teks roofing screw survives outdoors: the EPDM sealing washer and the corrosion coating. The washer is a rubber gasket bonded to a steel cap that compresses over the fastener hole to shed water. The coating is Climaseal, a zinc-based finish with a thermoset polyester layer, built to resist rust in weather exposure. Stainless steel points are also offered for coastal and high-corrosion sites.
The EPDM washer is the part that fails first when installed wrong. It is designed to compress to a slight, even bulge. Drive it too far and the rubber deforms, cracks, and pulls away from the metal, and that overdriven fastener becomes a leak path. Under-drive it and water wicks under an uncompressed washer.
How to install Teks roofing screws without stripping or leaking
Install Teks roofing screws with a variable-speed drill and clutch, never an impact driver, and drive each screw straight until the EPDM washer shows a slight even bulge. Impact drivers hammer the point and overdrive the washer before you can react, which is the leading cause of failed fastener seals on metal roofs.
- Use a variable-speed drill with a clutch, or a screw gun with a depth-sensing nose. Skip the impact driver for both drill point and stainless screws.
- Drive at a steady speed. Do not rev or pulse. Heat from a racing tip dulls the drill point and burns stainless screws.
- Keep the screw perpendicular. A screw driven at an angle tips the washer and opens a gap on one side.
- Stop at a slight washer bulge. Tight enough to seal, not so tight the rubber squeezes out or cracks.
- Let the screw fasten, not pull. Align panels first so the screw is holding, not dragging a panel into place.
- Fasten in the flat, per the panel maker. Exposed-fastener panels are usually screwed in the flat next to the rib, on the layout the manufacturer specifies.
Where the screw lands on the panel matters as much as how it is driven. For panel-specific placement and quantities, see our guides on the screw pattern for metal roofing, whether to screw in the rib or the flat, and how many screws you need per square.
Which Teks roofing screw should you buy?
For most exposed-fastener metal roofing, buy a #12 hex washer head Teks screw with an EPDM washer: a drill point version if the framing is steel, a sharp point version if the framing is wood. Step up to a #4 or #5 drill point only when the steel is heavier than about 12 gauge, and choose stainless in coastal air.
Quick selection: wood purlins take a #9 or #12 sharp point by 1 in to 1-1/2 in. Steel purlins up to 12 gauge take a #12 #3 drill point by 1 in. Heavy structural steel takes a #4 or #5 drill point sized to clear the metal plus three threads. Corrugated panels, standing seam clips, and stitch laps each have a matching Teks profile, so buy by the connection, not by the bin. For panel background, see our corrugated metal roofing guide and the wider roofing fundamentals hub.
Frequently asked questions
Are Teks screws the same as self-tapping screws?
Not exactly. All Teks drill point screws are self-drilling, meaning they cut their own hole in metal with no pilot. Self-tapping is broader: it means the screw forms its own threads, which many screws do, including sharp point Teks screws in wood. So a Teks drill point screw is both self-drilling and self-tapping, while a plain self-tapping screw may still need a pilot hole in metal.
Can Teks roofing screws go into wood?
Yes, but use the sharp point version, not the drill point. Sharp point Teks roofing screws are made for metal-to-wood work: the gimlet tip pierces the panel and threads into a wood purlin or deck. A drill point screw can bore an oversized hole in wood and lose its grip, so match the point to the substrate.
Why do my Teks screws keep stripping?
Stripping usually traces to three causes: an impact driver overdriving the screw, the wrong point for the substrate (a drill point spinning in wood or a sharp point failing on steel), or driving at an angle. Switch to a variable-speed drill with a clutch, verify point type against the framing, and drive straight until the washer shows a slight even bulge.
What size Teks screw for metal roofing?
A #12 hex washer head Teks screw is the standard for most exposed-fastener metal panels. Use a 1 in length for panel-to-metal or panel-to-wood over a nailable deck, and 1-1/2 in to 3 in when the screw passes through insulation into framing. The screw should exit the framing by at least three threads.
What is the EPDM washer on a Teks roofing screw for?
The EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) washer is a bonded rubber gasket that seals the fastener hole against water. It compresses to a slight bulge under proper torque. Overdriving cracks and deforms it, which turns the fastener into a leak point, so the washer, not the thread, is what makes a Teks roofing screw watertight.
Should you use an impact driver on Teks roofing screws?
No. Impact drivers hammer the fastener and overdrive the EPDM washer before you can stop, and the pulsing heat dulls drill points and burns stainless screws. Use a variable-speed drill with an adjustable clutch or a screw gun with a depth-sensing nose so you can stop at the correct washer compression.
Reviewed by The Roofing Brief Team. Last reviewed July 2026.