Metal roof rake trim is the bent metal flashing that caps the gable edge of a metal roof, the sloped side that runs from the eave up to the ridge. It closes the gap between the last panel and the roof edge, blocks wind-driven rain and pests from getting under the panels, and gives the roofline a clean finished edge, a topic in our broader learn about roofing library. It is one line item on a full metal roofing accessories catalog. Installers also call it gable trim, and it ships in 10-foot or 10-foot-6-inch lengths in the same gauge and color as the panels it finishes.
What is rake trim on a metal roof?
Rake trim covers the two sloped edges of a roof, the raked edges, where the panels end above the gable end wall. On an exposed-fastener roof it is an angled steel or aluminum profile with a top leg that laps onto the panel and a face leg that folds down over the rake board or fascia. Its job is to seal the cut panel end, shed water off the gable, and hide the raw panel edge.
Rake trim sits alongside every other piece named in our guide to metal roof components. The word “rake” names any inclined roof edge, as opposed to the eave, which is the horizontal edge at the bottom, and the ridge, which is the horizontal peak. So rake trim, gable trim, and gable flashing all describe the same piece on most exposed-fastener systems.
Standing seam roofs finish the gable differently. Instead of a face-fastened cap, the panel is often hemmed over a continuous cleat, and a separate rake or gable trim snaps or clips on so no fasteners pierce the visible face. That hidden-fastener detail is why standing seam rake work costs more and takes longer than a screw-down panel edge.
Rake trim vs drip edge, eave trim, and ridge cap
Rake trim seals the sloped side edges of the roof, while drip edge and eave trim seal the horizontal bottom edge and ridge cap seals the peak. They are different pieces bent to different profiles, and mixing them up is the most common ordering mistake on a first metal roof. The table below places each edge trim by location and function.
| Trim piece | Where it goes | What it does | Also called |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rake trim | Sloped gable edges, eave to ridge | Caps the panel end at the gable, sheds water off the side | Gable trim, gable flashing |
| Eave trim / drip edge | Horizontal bottom edge over the gutter | Directs runoff into the gutter, protects the fascia | Drip trim, eave flashing |
| Ridge cap | Horizontal peak where two slopes meet | Closes the top gap between panels, allows venting | Ridge trim, ridge flashing |
| Endwall / headwall | Top of slope against a vertical wall | Seals the transition where the roof runs into a wall | Transition flashing |
Note that eave drip edge and rake drip edge are installed in a specific order relative to underlayment and each other, a sequence covered in our eave versus rake drip edge install order guide. Rake trim itself goes on after the field panels are set, not before.
Rake trim profiles by panel system
The rake trim profile you buy has to match your panel system, because an exposed-fastener PBR profile and a standing seam profile terminate the gable in different ways. Buying the wrong profile leaves a gap the sealant cannot bridge. The three common families are described below.
- Standard rake trim (exposed fastener). A simple two-leg or three-leg bend for R-panel, PBR, and corrugated roofs. The top leg screws down into the panel high rib, the face leg screws into the rake board. This is the most widely stocked piece and the cheapest.
- Universal or endwall-and-rake trim. A deeper profile with a return hem, used where a cleaner face or a wider overhang is wanted, or where the same bend doubles for the rake and a low endwall.
- Standing seam gable / rake cleat. A two-part system: a continuous cleat fastens to the deck, then the rake trim hooks over it or the panel is hemmed to it, so the finished face carries no exposed screws.
How to install metal roof rake trim
Rake trim installs after the eave trim, underlayment, and field panels are down, working from the eave up toward the ridge so each piece laps over the one below and water always runs onto, not under, the trim. The core sequence is eight steps.
- Confirm the field panels are fastened and the panel edge sits where the rake trim will lap onto it, trimming any panel overhang to a consistent line.
- Run a bead of butyl sealant tape along the panel where the rake trim top leg will land, so the seam is watertight without relying on face screws alone.
- Start the first rake trim piece at the eave. Notch and fold the bottom end so it wraps cleanly over the eave trim and does not leave an open corner.
- Set the trim so the face leg covers the rake board and the top leg laps onto the panel, then check the line against the roof edge for straightness before fastening.
- Fasten the face leg into the rake board or fascia with 1.5-inch wood-grip screws every 12 to 16 inches on center.
- Fasten the top leg into the panel high rib, or use stitch screws with sealing washers into the panel, spaced roughly every 12 to 24 inches depending on the manufacturer detail.
- Overlap each following piece onto the one below by 4 to 6 inches, with butyl tape or sealant inside the lap, and stagger the fasteners across the joint.
- At the ridge, cut and fold the top of the last rake piece so it tucks under the ridge cap, closing the corner where the rake, ridge, and panel meet.
Fastener spacing and the exact top-leg detail vary by manufacturer, so follow the panel maker’s published trim detail where it differs from the general spacing above. Over-driving screws dimples the metal and breaks the paint film, so set the clutch and drive to the washer, not past it.
Metal roof rake trim specs and cost
Most residential rake trim is 26-gauge or 29-gauge painted steel in 10-foot or 10-foot-6-inch lengths, and it typically runs about $1.50 to $4 per linear foot, or roughly $15 to $40 per stick, before delivery, and the trim total is easy to miss when you use a metal roofing calculator that only counts panels. Aluminum, thicker steel, and standing seam cleated systems cost more. The table gives typical ranges; prices vary by region, finish, and supplier.
| Spec | Typical range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Gauge / thickness | 26 or 29 gauge steel; .019 to .032 aluminum | Match the panel gauge for a consistent finish |
| Stock length | 10 ft or 10 ft 6 in | Order length to minimize seams on long rakes |
| Face leg depth | About 3 to 5 in | Deeper face covers wider rake boards |
| Overlap at joints | 4 to 6 in with sealant | Stagger fasteners across the lap |
| Fasteners | 1.5 in wood-grip; stitch screws to panel | Color-matched heads on the visible face |
| Cost, painted steel | About $1.50 to $4 per linear foot | Roughly $15 to $40 per 10-ft piece |
| Cost, standing seam rake | Often 2x to 3x exposed-fastener | Cleat plus trim, more labor |
Common rake trim mistakes that cause leaks
Most rake trim failures trace to fastener placement, missing sealant, or the wrong install order rather than the trim itself. Watching for these five problems prevents the leaks and oil-canning that show up a season or two after the roof goes on.
- Installing rake trim before the panels. The panel has to lap into the trim, so panels go first and rake trim laps over them.
- Skipping butyl tape under the top leg. Face screws alone let capillary water track under the trim in wind-driven rain.
- Over-driving screws. A dimpled, cracked-paint screw head rusts and telegraphs waviness down the rake.
- Lapping pieces uphill-wrong. Work eave to ridge so upper pieces lap over lower ones, never the reverse.
- No expansion allowance on long runs. Metal moves with temperature, so pinning a long rake too tightly can buckle the face and pop screws.
Frequently asked questions
What is rake trim on a metal roof?
Rake trim is the bent metal flashing that caps the sloped gable edges of a metal roof, running from the eave up to the ridge. It laps over the panel edge, folds down over the rake board, and seals the cut panel end against wind-driven rain and pests. It is sold in 10-foot lengths in the same gauge and color as the panels.
Is rake trim the same as gable trim?
Yes. On most exposed-fastener metal roofs, rake trim and gable trim are two names for the same piece, the flashing that finishes the sloped side edges over the gable end wall. Some suppliers also call it gable flashing. The name changes by region and manufacturer, but the location and function are identical.
What is the difference between rake trim and drip edge?
Rake trim seals the sloped side edges of the roof, while drip edge, also called eave trim, seals the horizontal bottom edge over the gutter. They are bent to different profiles for different jobs. A metal roof uses both: drip edge at the eave to feed the gutter, rake trim up the gable sides to close the panel ends.
Which goes on first, panels or rake trim?
The field panels go on first, then the rake trim laps over the panel edge. Rake trim is one of the last exterior pieces installed, after eave trim, underlayment, and panels, and it is set working from the eave toward the ridge so each piece overlaps the one below and sheds water outward.
How far apart do you screw rake trim?
Fasten the face leg into the rake board every 12 to 16 inches on center, and secure the top leg to the panel high rib or with stitch screws roughly every 12 to 24 inches. Overlap joints 4 to 6 inches with butyl sealant and stagger the fasteners. Always follow the panel manufacturer’s published detail where it specifies different spacing.
How much does metal roof rake trim cost?
Painted steel rake trim in 26 or 29 gauge typically costs about $1.50 to $4 per linear foot, or roughly $15 to $40 per 10-foot piece, before delivery. Aluminum and standing seam cleated rake systems cost more, often two to three times an exposed-fastener piece. Prices vary by region, finish, and supplier.
Reviewed by The Roofing Brief Team. Last reviewed July 2026.