Metal roofing shears cut long, straight lines through flat steel and aluminum panels faster and cleaner than tin snips, with far less hand fatigue. The catch is that not every shear suits every panel. Single cut and double cut models leave different edges, corded and cordless bodies handle different gauges, and none of them ride over the ribs of a corrugated sheet. This guide maps each shear type to the panel and gauge it actually fits, ranks the leading powered models by job and price, and flags the cuts where a nibbler wins.
What are metal roofing shears?
Metal roofing shears are powered or hand cutting tools that slice sheet metal between two or three blades, built for straight and gently curved cuts in flat panels. They come as electric (corded or cordless), pneumatic, and manual compound designs. On a roof they handle standing seam pans, flat trim stock, and field cuts in flat panels. They are not designed to follow the ribs of a corrugated or exposed-fastener profile.
Most residential metal roofing runs 24 to 29 gauge steel or aluminum, and standing seam is commonly 24 gauge. Powered shears clear those gauges easily, which is why they became the go-to for straight cross-cuts on a panel run. For a wider view of the tool choices, see our full guide to cutting metal roofing.
Single cut vs double cut shears: what is the difference?
The core split among metal roofing shears is single cut versus double cut. A single cut shear runs one moving blade against one fixed blade, leaves no waste, but can curl or bend one side of the cut. A double cut shear runs a center blade between two outer blades and punches out a thin strip, about 7/32 inch (roughly 5 mm), so both finished sides stay flat with no warp. The tradeoff is a sliver of scrap and a curl of swarf.
| Feature | Single cut shear | Double cut shear |
|---|---|---|
| Blades | One moving, one fixed | Center blade between two outer blades |
| Waste produced | None | Thin strip, about 7/32 in |
| Edge on both sides | One side may curl | Both sides stay flat |
| Debris | Minimal | Small curl of scrap metal |
| Tight curves | Better, follows a radius | Limited, straight runs |
| Best for | Trim, tight spots, thinner gauge | Long field cuts, cleaner finished edges |
For a panel edge that stays visible, such as a rake or eave trim line, double cut usually gives the cleaner result because neither side folds up. Powered double cut models like the DeWalt DCS494B hold a minimum cutting radius of about 5 inches, so they track straight runs and wide sweeps rather than tight notches. For a hidden cut buried under a lap, a single cut shear is faster and wastes nothing.
Electric, cordless, pneumatic, or manual: which shear and what gauge?
Shear body type sets both mobility and how thick a metal it will cut. Corded electric shears push the most amperage and the highest gauge capacity. Cordless models trade a little cutting power for the freedom to move around a roof untethered. Pneumatic shears are light and fast but need a compressor and hose. Manual compound shears cut only thin panels and cut them slowly.
| Shear type | Power source | Typical steel capacity | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Manual compound | Hand | 24 to 29 gauge | Short detail cuts, thin panels |
| Corded electric | 110 to 120V, 4 to 6 amp | Up to 18 gauge, some to 14 | Long straight field cuts |
| Cordless electric | 18 to 20V battery | 14 to 18 gauge | On-roof mobility |
| Pneumatic | Air compressor | Up to 18 gauge | Fast shop or production cuts |
Gauge capacity is rated for mild steel. Stainless is harder, so drop roughly one gauge class of capacity when cutting it. The DeWalt DCS494B, rated 14 gauge in mild steel, drops to 16 gauge in stainless, a typical one-class step down. Aluminum is softer, so a shear rated for 18 gauge steel handles thicker aluminum without strain. Match the tool to the thickest metal on the job, not the average.
Metal roofing shears vs tin snips vs a nibbler
Shears are one of three common cutting tools, and each owns a different job. Shears win long straight and gently curved cuts in flat panels. Tin snips win short, detailed cuts and tight curves on thin stock. A nibbler wins corrugated profiles, ribbed panels, and cutouts around vents and chimneys because it punches small chips and can ride up and over each corrugation.
| Tool | Cut style | Best profile | Handles curves | Waste |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shears | Straight, gentle curve | Flat panel, trim, standing seam pan | Limited | Double cut only |
| Tin snips | Short, detailed | Thin flat panel edges | Yes, tight radius | None |
| Nibbler | Punches chips | Corrugated, ribbed, cutouts | Yes | Metal chips |
The practical rule: reach for shears on a straight panel run, snips for a notch or a short trim adjustment, and a nibbler when the panel is corrugated metal roofing or you are cutting around an obstacle. Both shears and nibblers are cold cutting tools, so they seal the galvanized edge instead of burning it, which matters for rust resistance.
When shears are the wrong tool
Shears fail on three jobs. They cannot follow the up-and-down profile of a corrugated or ribbed panel, so a standard shear only cross-cuts such sheets and cannot cut along the corrugation. They cannot hold a tight curve around a vent boot or chimney cutout. And they are poor at cutting in the same direction as a rib. For any of those, switch to a nibbler.
One exception is worth knowing: a corrugated-specific shear head like the Malco TurboShear TSCM chucks into a drill and is built to ride 30 to 24 gauge corrugated and box-rib profiles, the one shear-style tool that follows corrugation. For flat-panel work it is the standard powered shear or nibbler split above.
Avoid an angle grinder or abrasive circular blade for finish cuts on coated panels. The heat burns the paint and protective coating along the cut, throws hot particles that embed and bloom into rust spots, and can void some manufacturer finish warranties. Cold cutting tools like shears, snips, and nibblers keep the coating intact.
Best metal roofing shears in 2026, by job
Several brands dominate the powered shear market, and the right pick depends on gauge, mobility, and how much finished-edge quality the job needs. The ranked table below sorts the models roofers reach for most often by the job each one owns, from the heaviest cordless field cuts to a budget drill attachment. Pick by the panel and gauge you cut most, not by amperage alone.
The Roofing Brief has not bench tested these shears. Capacities and speeds come from each manufacturer’s published ratings, and prices are approximate U.S. street prices for the bare tool (battery and charger sold separately) as of 2026. Both shift with retailer, promotions, and kit configuration, so confirm the current gauge rating and price on the manufacturer or retailer listing before buying.
| Shear (model) | Cut type | Mild-steel capacity | Key spec | Typical bare-tool price | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Milwaukee M18 2636-20 | Double cut | 14 gauge | 360 degree head, 7/32 in strip | About $350 to $490 | Heaviest cordless field cuts |
| Milwaukee M18 2635-20 | Double cut | 18 gauge (20 ga stainless) | 3.9 lb, 6 in min cut diameter | About $300 to $355 | Light gauge, lightest cordless body |
| DeWalt DCS494B | Double cut, swivel head | 14 gauge (16 ga stainless) | 2,450 SPM, 5 in min radius | About $229 to $279 | DeWalt battery users, tight radius |
| Makita XSJ01Z | Shear head, no strip waste | 16 gauge (18 ga stainless) | 18V LXT, offset head | Varies by retailer | Clean single-pass cuts, no scrap strip |
| Malco TurboShear TSCM | Drill attachment shear head | 30 to 24 gauge corrugated | 360 degree rotating, fits any drill | Budget, varies by retailer | Occasional corrugated and box-rib cuts |
| Swenson Straight Cut Shear | Manual straight cut | Up to about 24 gauge | Floor or table mount, wheel and T-handle | Varies by retailer | Dead-straight panel and standing seam cuts, no power |
Match the shear to the panel type first. Panel profile and gauge vary widely across products, so review metal roofing panel types and gauges before you buy a tool sized to the wrong metal.
How much do metal roofing shears cost?
Powered metal roofing shears run roughly $100 to $500 for the bare tool as of 2026. Cordless double cut models sit in the middle: the DeWalt DCS494B lists around $229 to $279, the Milwaukee M18 2635-20 around $300 to $355, and the heavier 14 gauge Milwaukee 2636-20 around $350 to $490. Drill-attachment shears like the Malco TurboShear cost far less. Battery, charger, and blades are usually extra.
How to make a clean cut with metal roofing shears
A clean shear cut comes from support, blade angle, and steady feed, not from forcing the tool. Rushing a shear folds the edge and chews the coating. Follow the sequence below for a straight, burr-free line that keeps the panel flat and the cut edge protected from rust.
- Mark the cut line with a fine marker or a scribe and a straightedge so the shear has a line to track.
- Support the panel on both sides of the cut so it cannot flex or vibrate as the blades bite.
- Set the shear flat against the panel and start the cut from the panel edge, not the middle.
- Feed the tool steadily and let the motor set the pace. Do not push faster than the blades cut.
- Deburr the finished edge with a file or deburring tool, then wipe it clean and touch up any exposed cut edge with a cold galvanizing compound and matching coating or edge primer.
- Wipe the swarf and metal filings off the panel surface right away so they do not rust and stain the finish.
Cut edges on steel panels are the first place rust starts, which is why edge touch-up matters on any exposed cut. For where these cuts fit in a full panel install, see our metal roofing types guide and the broader roofing fundamentals hub. National data on how common metal roofs have become sits in our roofing material market share report.
Frequently asked questions
Can you cut metal roofing with shears?
Yes. Metal roofing shears cut flat steel and aluminum panels in straight or gently curved lines, and they handle the 24 to 29 gauge metal used on most residential roofs with ease. They are ideal for standing seam pans, flat panels, and trim stock. They are not suited to corrugated or ribbed profiles, where a nibbler that can ride over each rib is the better tool.
What is the difference between single cut and double cut shears?
A single cut shear uses one moving blade and one fixed blade, produces no waste, but can curl one side of the cut. A double cut shear uses a center blade between two outer blades to punch out a thin strip, about 7/32 inch, leaving both finished sides flat with no warp. Single cut is faster and cleaner for hidden cuts. Double cut gives a better visible edge.
Are shears or a nibbler better for metal roofing?
It depends on the panel. Shears are better for long straight cuts in flat panels and standing seam pans, cutting fast with little debris. A nibbler is better for corrugated and ribbed panels, tight curves, and cutouts around vents or chimneys, because it punches small chips and can follow the profile. Many roofers carry both and choose by the cut in front of them.
What gauge metal can electric shears cut?
Corded electric shears typically cut up to 18 gauge mild steel, with some heavy models rated to 14 gauge on straight cuts. Cordless shears usually handle 14 to 18 gauge, such as the 14 gauge Milwaukee 2636-20 and DeWalt DCS494B or the 18 gauge Milwaukee 2635-20. Ratings are for mild steel, so subtract about one gauge class for stainless and add capacity for softer aluminum.
How much do metal roofing shears cost?
Powered metal roofing shears typically run about $100 to $500 for the bare tool in 2026. Cordless double cut models cluster in the middle: the DeWalt DCS494B lists near $229 to $279 and the Milwaukee M18 2635-20 near $300 to $355, with the heavier 14 gauge Milwaukee 2636-20 higher. Drill-attachment shears cost far less. Battery, charger, and spare blades are usually sold separately.
Can you cut corrugated roofing with shears?
A standard powered shear cannot ride the up-and-down profile of a corrugated or ribbed sheet, so it only cross-cuts the panel and cannot cut along the direction of the ribs. The exception is a corrugated-specific drill attachment like the Malco TurboShear TSCM, built to follow 30 to 24 gauge corrugated and box-rib profiles. For curves or cutouts, a nibbler remains the correct tool.
Do shears leave a clean edge on metal roofing?
Double cut shears leave a flat, clean edge on both sides because they remove a thin strip as they cut. Single cut shears can curl or bend one side, which is fine for a hidden lap but less clean on a visible edge. Either way, deburr the cut and touch up the exposed edge with cold galvanizing compound and matching coating, since bare cut edges on steel are where rust tends to start.
Reviewed by The Roofing Brief Team. Last reviewed August 2026.