Skylights cost $400 to $8,500 as a finished project in 2026, and where you land depends far more on the job than the glass. A tubular unit dropped into an existing hole can total under $700. A brand-new vented electric skylight cut into a finished ceiling, with a framed light shaft and permits, often runs $4,500 to $8,500. Most homeowners adding a standard fixed or manual-vented skylight budget $1,500 to $3,500 all in. This page stacks every line item into one total-project table so you can see your real bottom line, not just the price of the box.
For the deep per-line install and flashing detail by type and brand, see our skylight installation cost breakdown. This guide stays focused on the whole-project budget: unit, cut-in, finishing, and the extras that move the number.
How much do skylights cost, all in?
A finished skylight project runs $400 to $8,500 depending on type and whether the opening already exists. The unit itself is often the smallest line. Labor to cut the roof, frame the opening, flash it, and finish the interior shaft usually costs $1,200 to $3,200 on a new cut-in. Swapping glass into a curb that is already there can cost a fraction of that. Type sets the floor; the job sets the ceiling.
| Scenario | Unit only | Total project (installed) |
|---|---|---|
| Tubular into existing/new hole | $150 to $500 | $400 to $1,200 |
| Fixed, glass-only swap in existing curb | $150 to $800 | $500 to $1,500 |
| Fixed, new cut-in with shaft | $150 to $800 | $1,500 to $4,000 |
| Vented manual, new cut-in | $300 to $600 | $3,200 to $5,900 |
| Vented electric or solar, new cut-in | $650 to $1,000 | $4,250 to $8,500 |
Ranges reflect national 2026 pricing and can shift with region, roof pitch, and access. Prices often run higher in high-cost-of-living metros and on steep or multi-story roofs. Use these bands to frame quotes, not as a fixed guarantee.
The single biggest cost fork: glass-only swap vs new cut-in
The one decision that swings a skylight budget most is whether an opening already exists. Replacing the glass or the whole unit in a curb that is already framed and flashed skips the two most expensive steps: cutting the roof and building the interior shaft. A swap can cost $500 to $1,500. Cutting a new hole into a finished ceiling can cost three to six times that, mostly in labor and drywall.
A glass-only or unit swap reuses the existing rough opening, curb, and interior shaft. You pay for the new unit, removal, resealing, and flashing. This is why homeowners replacing a 20-year-old skylight are often surprised the project is closer to $1,000 than $4,000.
A new cut-in means a roofer removes shingles, cuts the deck, frames headers and trimmers, sets and flashes the unit, then frames and drywalls a shaft down through the attic to the ceiling. Each of those is billable labor. On a new cut-in, the unit is frequently under 20% of the total.
What does each skylight type cost?
Skylight type sets the price floor. Tubular units are the budget option at $400 to $1,200 installed. Fixed skylights run $150 to $800 for the unit and $1,500 to $4,000 as a new install. Vented models cost the most because of the operating hardware: $3,200 to $5,900 for manual, and $4,250 to $8,500 for electric or solar. The table below compares them at a glance.
| Type | Unit only | Typical installed | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tubular (sun tunnel) | $150 to $500 | $400 to $1,200 | Hallways, closets, small dark rooms |
| Fixed | $150 to $800 | $1,500 to $4,000 | Daylight only, lowest leak risk |
| Vented manual | $300 to $600 | $3,200 to $5,900 | Reachable kitchens, bathrooms |
| Vented electric or solar | $650 to $1,000 | $4,250 to $8,500 | High or hard-to-reach ceilings |
Tubular skylight cost
A tubular skylight, also called a sun tunnel, costs $400 to $1,200 installed and is the cheapest way to add daylight. The unit runs $150 to $500. A reflective 10 to 14 inch tube channels light from a small roof dome down through the attic, so there is no large opening to frame and no drywall shaft to build. That skipped framing and finishing is why it lands well below a framed skylight.
Fixed skylight cost
A fixed skylight costs $1,500 to $4,000 as a new install and $500 to $1,500 as a swap. The unit is $150 to $800. Fixed skylights do not open, so they carry the fewest moving parts and the lowest long-term leak risk. On a new cut-in, most of the cost is labor: cutting, framing, flashing, and finishing the shaft below.
Vented skylight cost
Vented skylights open to release heat and moisture and cost the most: $3,200 to $5,900 for a manual crank model and $4,250 to $8,500 for electric or solar with a rain sensor. The operating hardware, motor, and controls add to both the unit and the install. Premium brand lines such as VELUX solar-operated models may qualify for the federal residential clean energy credit, which can offset part of the cost depending on your tax situation. Confirm eligibility with a tax professional.
Fixed vs vented skylight cost: which is worth it?
Fixed skylights cost roughly half of vented ones for the same size and location, so the choice comes down to whether you need airflow. A fixed skylight suits a room that only needs light. A vented skylight suits kitchens and bathrooms where releasing heat and moisture matters. The gap is largest on electric and solar vented models, where hardware can add $2,000 or more over a comparable fixed unit.
| Factor | Fixed | Vented |
|---|---|---|
| Typical installed cost | $1,500 to $4,000 | $3,200 to $8,500 |
| Opens for airflow | No | Yes |
| Long-term leak risk | Lowest | Higher (moving seal) |
| Moisture and heat control | No | Yes |
| Ongoing maintenance | Minimal | Motor, sensor, seals |
What goes into the total project cost?
A skylight quote stacks four buckets: the unit, the cut-in labor, the interior finishing, and the extras. On a new cut-in these commonly add to $1,500 to $6,000 before premium units. The table below breaks a typical new fixed or manual-vented install into its parts so you can sanity-check a bid line by line.
| Line item | Typical range | What it covers |
|---|---|---|
| Skylight unit | $150 to $1,000 | The skylight, flashing kit, glazing |
| Roof cut and flash | $600 to $1,500 | Remove shingles, cut deck, frame, set, flash |
| Interior light shaft framing | $300 to $1,000 | Framed chase through the attic |
| Drywall and paint | $300 to $1,200 | Finish shaft: $1.50 to $3.50/sf drywall, $1 to $3/sf paint |
| Permit and inspection | $100 to $500 | Roof penetration permit, often per opening |
| Electrical (powered units) | $150 to $600 | Wiring for electric vent, blinds, sensors |
The interior light shaft is the hidden cost
The light shaft is the framed, drywalled tunnel connecting the roof opening to the ceiling, and it is the line most homeowners forget. On a two-story roof or a deep attic, the shaft can be several feet long, and each foot adds framing, drywall at $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot, and paint at $1 to $3 per square foot. A splayed shaft that widens toward the room costs more than a straight one but spreads more light.
Permits and inspection
Most jurisdictions require a permit for a new roof penetration, costing $100 to $500. Some cities charge per opening, such as roughly $100 per penetration in parts of Florida. A permit triggers an inspection, which protects you if you sell the home later. Skipping it can create disclosure and insurance problems, so factor it in rather than working around it.
What makes a skylight cost more or less?
Beyond type and cut-in, four factors move a skylight quote most: roof pitch and height, roof material, shaft depth, and local labor rates. A steep two-story roof with tile costs far more to open than a walkable one-story asphalt roof. These variables explain why identical units can quote $2,000 apart in the same city.
- Roof pitch and height: Steep or multi-story roofs need staging and safety setup, raising labor.
- Roof material: Tile, slate, and metal cost more to cut and reflash than asphalt shingle.
- Shaft depth: A deep attic means a longer framed and drywalled shaft.
- Electrical needs: Powered vents, blinds, and rain sensors add wiring.
- Local labor market: Rates in high-cost metros can run well above rural pricing.
- Access: Tight yards, second stories, and complex roof lines slow the crew.
How to budget your skylight project in five steps
To estimate your own total before calling contractors, work from the scenario down to the extras. This ordered process turns the ranges above into a single planning number you can take into quotes.
- Pick your scenario. Glass-only swap, new cut-in, or tubular. This sets your base range from the total-project table.
- Choose a type. Fixed, vented manual, or vented electric or solar. This sets the unit and hardware cost.
- Measure the shaft. Estimate attic depth and multiply the shaft surface area by drywall and paint rates.
- Add the fixed extras. Include a permit at $100 to $500 and electrical at $150 to $600 for powered units.
- Add a contingency. Reserve 10 to 15% for rot, framing surprises, or reflashing found once the roof is open.
Does adding a skylight pay off?
A skylight can add daylight, ventilation, and perceived space, and quality daylighting is a common draw for buyers, though it rarely returns its full cost at resale. The financial case is strongest when you bundle the cut-in with a reroof, because the crew is already on the roof and the tear-off overlaps. Adding a skylight during a planned reroof or tear-off can trim labor and flashing costs versus a standalone job. Weigh comfort and light against cost; the payoff is often lifestyle, not dollars. For more on planning a roof project end to end, browse our roofing basics hub.
Skylight cost FAQ
How much does it cost to install a skylight?
Installing a skylight costs $400 to $8,500 as a finished project in 2026, with most standard installs at $1,500 to $3,500. A tubular unit runs $400 to $1,200, a fixed skylight $1,500 to $4,000, and a vented electric or solar model $4,250 to $8,500. Whether the roof opening already exists is the single biggest factor in your total.
How much does it cost to add a skylight where there was none?
Adding a brand-new skylight where none existed costs more than a replacement because it requires cutting the roof, framing the opening, and building a finished interior shaft. A standard new fixed cut-in with a drywall shaft typically totals $3,000 to $5,000. Vented and powered units on tall or steep roofs can push $8,500 or more once permits and electrical are added.
Why is a tubular skylight so much cheaper?
A tubular skylight costs $400 to $1,200 because it skips the two priciest steps of a framed skylight: cutting a large opening and building a drywall light shaft. A small dome feeds a reflective 10 to 14 inch tube down through the attic, so there is no header framing or finished shaft. It delivers focused daylight for hallways and closets at a fraction of the cost.
Is a fixed or vented skylight cheaper?
A fixed skylight is cheaper, typically $1,500 to $4,000 installed versus $3,200 to $8,500 for a vented model of the same size. The difference is the operating hardware: a crank or a motor, controls, and often a rain sensor. Fixed units also carry lower long-term leak risk because they have no moving seal, so they cost less to own over time as well.
Do skylights need a permit?
Most jurisdictions require a permit for a new roof penetration, costing $100 to $500, and some cities charge per opening. A permit triggers an inspection that documents the work, which helps at resale and with insurance claims. Requirements vary by location, so confirm with your local building department before scheduling the install.
Can I lower my skylight cost by timing it with a reroof?
Yes, adding a skylight during a planned reroof or tear-off can reduce cost because the crew is already on the roof and the shingle removal and flashing work overlap. You avoid paying twice for staging, setup, and roof access. Savings vary by roof and contractor, so ask for the skylight to be quoted as a line item within the reroof bid.
Reviewed by The Roofing Brief Team. Last reviewed July 2026.