By The Roofing Brief Team. Last reviewed: October 2026.
Filing an insurance claim for roof damage follows a predictable 8-step process: document the damage with photos immediately, mitigate further damage with tarps or temporary patches, get a written inspection from a licensed roofing contractor BEFORE you call the carrier, file the claim through your carrier’s online portal or 800 number, meet the insurance adjuster on the roof with your contractor present, review the estimate and understand ACV versus RCV math, hire your contractor and complete the work, and submit final invoices to release any held-back depreciation. The whole process typically runs 30 to 90 days from storm to final check. Where it stalls (and where most homeowners lose money) is in step 5: the adjuster meeting and the disputed scope.
The short version
- Document everything within 72 hours of the storm. Time-stamped photos are your strongest evidence.
- Get a contractor inspection BEFORE you file. The contractor’s report sets your scope baseline.
- Meet the adjuster on the roof with your contractor present. Two pros agree more than one pro disagrees alone.
- Understand ACV vs RCV: ACV pays depreciated value only, RCV pays full replacement minus deductible.
- Filing deadlines vary by state and policy. Florida, for example, requires notice within 1 year after the date of loss (Fla. Stat. 627.70132). Earlier is always better.
- A public adjuster (commonly paid a percentage of the settlement) is worth considering on denied or low-balled claims, not on routine ones.
The Short Answer: 8-Step Process
The steps follow the Duties After Loss in the ISO HO 00 03 05 11 form (prompt notice, protect the property, keep a repair-expense record, and a signed proof of loss within 60 days after the carrier requests it), plus the documentation that wins scope disputes.
| Step | Action | Timing |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Document the damage (photos, video, weather records) | Within 72 hours of storm |
| 2 | Mitigate further damage (tarp, board up) | Within 48 hours |
| 3 | Get a contractor inspection in writing | Within 1 week |
| 4 | File the claim with your carrier | Within 30 days |
| 5 | Meet the adjuster on the roof | Carrier-scheduled, usually 5 to 21 days post-filing |
| 6 | Review the estimate and understand the math | 1 to 14 days after adjuster visit |
| 7 | Sign with contractor, complete the work | 2 to 12 weeks after approval |
| 8 | Submit final invoice for depreciation release | After the work is complete; the ISO form requires notice of intent to repair within 180 days after the date of loss |
Step 1: Document the Damage Immediately
Your documentation kit should include:
- Photos of every damaged area from multiple angles
- Wide shots of the whole roof to establish overall condition
- Close-ups of specific damage points (hail hits, missing shingles, flashing failures)
- Photos of soft-metal damage (gutters, AC fins, vent caps, window screens) to corroborate hail size
- Photos of interior damage (ceiling stains, attic moisture, wet insulation)
- Photos of yard debris (limbs, hail accumulation, downed fencing)
- Video walk-around of the property
- NOAA weather record for the storm date (printout or saved PDF)
Keep the original files, not screenshots. Smartphone photos store the capture time and GPS position in EXIF metadata, and editing or re-exporting a photo can strip it. Copy the originals to cloud storage in a folder named with the date of loss (for example 2026-05-14-hail) so each image still shows when and where it was taken.
Pull the NOAA storm record
Search the NOAA NCEI Storm Events Database by state, county and date range, then save the event record as a PDF. Each hail or wind entry lists the event date, location and reported magnitude (hail diameter in inches, wind speed in knots), which independently places severe weather near your address on the date of loss.
Step 2: Mitigate Further Damage
The ISO HO 00 03 Duties After Loss condition (item 4) requires you to make reasonable and necessary repairs to protect the property and keep an accurate record of repair expenses. If a shingle is gone and the deck is exposed, you must tarp it. If a window is broken, you must board it up. If a tree limb is on the roof, you must secure the immediate danger. For a tree on the roof specifically, see our steps after a tree falls on your roof.
What “reasonable” means:
- Tarp the exposed area. The standard ISO HO 3 form pays the reasonable cost of necessary measures to protect covered property from further damage under its Reasonable Repairs additional coverage.
- Move valuables out of areas with active leaks
- Photograph all mitigation actions for reimbursement
- Keep receipts for any materials or services you purchase
Tarping and boarding are mitigation, billed under the Reasonable Repairs additional coverage (no deductible applies to it on the ISO form). Re-shingling or replacing the roof is permanent repair, so hold it until the adjuster has documented the damage and the claim is approved.
Step 3: Get a Contractor Inspection BEFORE the Adjuster
This is the single highest-value step in the process. Get a written, photo-documented inspection from a local licensed roofing contractor before you call the carrier. Their report becomes your scope baseline.
What the contractor’s report should contain:
- Date of inspection
- Estimated date of damage (matches storm record)
- Photos of every damaged area with annotations
- Count of hail hits per slope (10×10 test square methodology)
- Recommended scope (repair vs replacement)
- Itemized estimate using Xactimate or similar pricing
- Contractor’s license number, insurance, and contact info
Why this matters: insurance adjusters operate under time pressure and write narrow scopes by default. A contractor’s report establishes a counter-baseline. When the adjuster writes a $4,500 repair scope and your contractor has documented a $14,500 replacement, you have a strong counter-argument at the negotiation table. Without that report, you are arguing the adjuster’s number against thin air. For how to choose a contractor capable of producing this report, see how to choose a roofing contractor.
Avoid storm-chasing crews
After every major storm, out-of-state crews canvass neighborhoods promising free inspections and “no out of pocket” replacements. They get a contract signed (often an Assignment of Benefits, or AOB), file the claim themselves, and disappear if anything goes wrong. Use a local contractor with at least 3 to 5 years of physical presence in your market.
Step 4: File Your Claim
Call your carrier or use their app or web portal. You will need:
- Policy number
- Date of loss (the storm date)
- Cause of loss (hail, wind, fallen tree, etc.)
- Brief description of damage
- Your contact info for adjuster scheduling
The carrier opens a claim file, assigns a claim number, and assigns an adjuster. Note both numbers immediately. You will reference them dozens of times. The adjuster will reach out within 3 to 7 days to schedule a roof inspection.
What to say (and not say) at filing
Stick to facts. “A severe hail and wind storm occurred at our address on [date]. We have documented damage to the roof, gutters, window screens, and an AC condenser. We are filing a claim under our homeowners policy.” That is enough.
Do not say: “My roof is really old anyway and was about to need replacement.” Do not say: “My contractor told me the whole roof needs to come off.” Do not say: “I think it might have been from a storm two months ago.” All of these volunteer information that can be used to reduce or deny your claim.
Step 5: Meet the Adjuster on the Roof
Show up. Bring your contractor if at all possible. This is the single most important meeting in the whole process.
What to do during the adjuster’s inspection:
- Walk the property with them. Show them the storm debris if it is still on site.
- Point out every damage point you have documented. They may have missed some.
- Watch them mark and count their 10-by-10 test squares.
- Take your own photos of every mark they make.
- Ask them to also document soft-metal damage and collateral damage to gutters, AC, fences, etc.
- If they declare damage “cosmetic only” on the spot, have your contractor walk them through specific functional damage indicators.
- Get the adjuster’s email and direct phone before they leave.
If you are not present, the adjuster writes the scope from what they find and count, with no one to point out missed slopes or soft-metal hits. Your contractor’s written report from Step 3 is the document to hand over at this meeting.
Step 6: Understand the Estimate (ACV vs RCV)
Within 7 to 21 days the adjuster issues their estimate. This is where the homeowner math gets confusing. There are two key numbers and they are very different.
Replacement Cost Value (RCV)
The full cost to replace your roof at today’s prices with materials of like kind and quality. If your contractor estimates $14,500 to replace the roof, and the adjuster’s Xactimate also produces $14,500, that is your RCV.
Actual Cash Value (ACV)
RCV minus depreciation. A 15-year-old roof with a 25-year expected life has lost 60 percent of its value, so ACV would be roughly 40 percent of RCV (less the deductible). On a $14,500 RCV, that is $5,800 ACV, then minus deductible.
The two-check process on most RCV policies
Most modern RCV policies pay in two installments:
| Check | Amount | Timing |
|---|---|---|
| First check (ACV) | RCV minus depreciation minus deductible | Policy and state rules control: the ISO HO 00 03 Loss Payment condition says 60 days after proof of loss and agreement on the amount |
| Second check (recoverable depreciation) | The withheld depreciation amount | After work is completed and final invoices submitted |
Under the ISO HO 00 03 05 11 Loss Settlement condition, the carrier pays no more than actual cash value until the repair or replacement is complete, and you may claim the additional amount only if you notify the carrier within 180 days after the date of loss of your intent to repair or replace. If you keep the first check and skip the work, the withheld depreciation is not paid. Some policies and endorsements set other deadlines, so check yours.
Read your declarations page carefully
Check whether your roof coverage specifically says “RCV” or “ACV” or “Roof Surface ACV.” Some carriers (especially in storm-belt states) have moved roofs to ACV-only coverage even when the rest of the dwelling is RCV. An ACV-only policy on a 20-year-old roof pays out very little because depreciation has eaten most of the value.
Step 7: Hire a Roofing Contractor
Once you have the approved scope and first check, hire your contractor formally. The contractor should provide:
- A written contract matching the carrier-approved scope
- Proof of liability insurance and workers comp
- License documentation
- Material specifications (brand, model, color, warranty)
- Start date and completion timeline
- Payment schedule tied to milestones
Pay the contractor in installments tied to work milestones. Never pay 100 percent up front. A typical schedule:
- A modest deposit at signing, often 10 percent or less (California caps it at 10 percent or $1,000, whichever is less, and Maryland at one-third of the contract price)
- 40 to 50 percent at material delivery
- Balance at completion and final inspection
Beware Assignment of Benefits (AOB)
An AOB lets the contractor file claims and receive payments directly from the carrier on your behalf. It has been a major source of fraud in Florida and a few other states. Avoid signing an AOB unless your specific state has consumer protections. Florida specifically reformed AOB rules in 2019 and 2022; see the Florida AOB roofing reform context if you are filing there. In most states it is better to keep the claim in your name and pay the contractor directly.
Step 8: Final Payment and Closeout
Once work is complete:
- Walk the roof or hire a third-party inspector to confirm the work matches the scope
- Get the contractor’s final invoice itemized by material and labor
- Submit final invoice and proof of completion to the carrier
- Carrier releases recoverable depreciation under your policy’s loss-payment clause (the ISO form allows up to 60 days after proof of loss and agreement; some states set shorter deadlines), so ask the adjuster for a payment date in writing
- Pay the contractor their final balance
- File the manufacturer warranty registration
- Save all documentation for at least 5 years
If you have a mortgage, the carrier checks are often issued jointly to you and your mortgage company. Your mortgage servicer typically requires inspections to release funds at each milestone, which adds 5 to 14 days at each step. Plan accordingly. For the mechanics of the second check, see our guide to collecting recoverable depreciation on a roof claim.
ACV vs RCV: What You Actually Get
Here is the math worked out for three common scenarios on a $14,500 RCV claim with a $2,500 deductible.
Scenario A: RCV policy, 8-year-old roof, 25-year material life
| RCV | $14,500 |
| Depreciation (32 percent of life used) | ($4,640) |
| ACV | $9,860 |
| Less deductible | ($2,500) |
| First check | $7,360 |
| Recoverable depreciation (paid after work complete) | $4,640 |
| Total payout | $12,000 |
| Homeowner out of pocket | $2,500 |
Scenario B: ACV-only policy, 18-year-old roof, 25-year material life
| RCV | $14,500 |
| Depreciation (72 percent of life used) | ($10,440) |
| ACV | $4,060 |
| Less deductible | ($2,500) |
| Total payout (no depreciation recovery) | $1,560 |
| Homeowner out of pocket | $12,940 |
Scenario C: RCV policy with 2 percent hail deductible on $400K dwelling
| RCV | $14,500 |
| Less deductible (2 percent of $400K) | ($8,000) |
| Less depreciation (5-year-old roof, 20 percent) | ($2,900) |
| First check | $3,600 |
| Recoverable depreciation | $2,900 |
| Total payout | $6,500 |
| Homeowner out of pocket | $8,000 |
Percentage deductibles are increasingly common in hail and wind belts (TX, OK, KS, NE, CO, FL, NC, SC). Read your declarations page. A 2 to 5 percent named storm or hail deductible can be the difference between a usable claim and one that does not exceed the deductible at all.
Deductibles and Out-of-Pocket Math
| Deductible Type | Common Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Standard deductible | $500 to $2,500 | Applies to most perils |
| Wind/hail deductible | 1 to 5 percent of dwelling | Storm belt states |
| Named storm deductible | 2 to 10 percent of dwelling | Coastal hurricane states |
| Roof deductible (some carriers) | $2,500 to $5,000 flat | Florida and some Texas markets |
The trend since 2022 has been carriers shifting roof exposure to either higher percentage deductibles or roof-specific deductibles, and many have moved to ACV-only roof coverage on roofs over 10 to 15 years old. Read your declarations page before storm season, not after.
Common Claim Denial Reasons (and How to Fight Back)
1. “Wear and tear, not storm damage”
The most common denial. Counter with: NOAA storm record proving severe weather at the property on the date, dated photos, soft-metal damage corroborating hail size, and a contractor’s report distinguishing storm patterns from age-related wear.
2. “Cosmetic damage only”
Counter with: a contractor’s written documentation of functional damage (mat fracture, granule loss exposing mat, seal failure). Request a re-inspection.
3. “Pre-existing damage”
Counter with: prior inspection reports if you have them, real estate sale inspection reports, neighbor claim records on the same date, and HOA records of recent roof condition.
4. “Maintenance issue”
Counter with: documentation of routine maintenance (gutter cleaning receipts, prior repair invoices). This denial often hits roofs over 15 years old. The defense is showing the roof was reasonably maintained until the storm event.
5. “Claim filed too late”
Counter with: NOAA records proving the storm date, the date you first noticed damage (often delayed because hail damage can hide for months), and any prior communications with the carrier about the property.
When to Hire a Public Adjuster
Public adjusters are state-licensed advocates who work for you, not the carrier. They are usually paid a percentage of the settlement, and some states cap that fee; Florida caps it at 10 percent for claims within a year after a declared emergency and 20 percent otherwise (Fla. Stat. 626.854(11)(b)). They make the most sense in three situations:
- Your claim was outright denied but you have documented damage
- The settlement is substantially less than your independent contractor’s estimate (more than 30 percent below)
- The claim has dragged on past 60 days with little progress
Vetting a public adjuster:
- Verify license through your state Department of Insurance
- Get the fee agreement in writing
- Check references from at least 3 past clients
- Avoid any PA who solicits door-to-door after a storm
- The NAPIA (National Association of Public Insurance Adjusters) member directory is a starting point
For routine claims that go smoothly, a PA is not worth the fee. For denied or low-balled claims with documented merit, a PA often nets you more even after their cut.
Florida AOB Reform: What’s Different
Florida’s December 2022 special session law, SB 2-A, ended post-loss assignments of benefits for new policies and repealed one-way attorney fees. The changes that matter for a roof claim:
- Post-loss assignments of benefits are void under residential and commercial property policies issued on or after January 1, 2023 (Fla. Stat. 627.7152(13))
- One-way attorney fee shifting in property insurance litigation was repealed
- Roof age and condition more directly affect coverage availability
- Insurers may not refuse to write or renew solely because of the age of a roof under 15 years old, and for an older roof they must accept an authorized inspection; if it shows at least 5 years of useful life remaining, roof age alone cannot be the reason to refuse (Fla. Stat. 627.7011(5))
If you are a Florida homeowner, do not sign an AOB without legal review. Use a local contractor and keep the claim in your name. See our Florida AOB roofing reform guide for the full picture.
How Carrier Practices Differ
Carriers differ in whether they use staff or independent adjusters, how closely they scrutinize older roofs, and whether they settle roofs on replacement cost or actual cash value. Those practices also change by state and over time, so read your own declarations page and policy rather than relying on a carrier’s reputation. If your claim stalls or the scope looks thin, the dispute steps below apply with any carrier.
If X, Then Y: Decision Table
| If your situation is | Then |
|---|---|
| The adjuster’s estimate is more than 30 percent below your contractor’s | Ask for line-item differences, file a supplement, then invoke appraisal or hire a public adjuster |
| No estimate 60 days after filing | Send a written status demand, call the supervisor, then file a state Department of Insurance complaint |
| Your wind/hail deductible is 2 percent of a $400,000 dwelling ($8,000) | Compare your contractor’s estimate to $8,000 before filing; a smaller loss will not pay |
| You have an RCV policy and a covered loss | Notify the carrier within 180 days of loss that you intend to repair (ISO form), then submit final invoices for the second check |
| A crew asks you to sign an assignment of benefits in Florida | Do not sign; post-loss assignments are void on policies issued on or after January 1, 2023 |
Timeline: What to Expect
| Milestone | Days from Storm |
|---|---|
| Document damage | 1 to 3 |
| Tarp/mitigate | 1 to 7 |
| Contractor inspection | 3 to 14 |
| File claim | 5 to 30 |
| Adjuster scheduled | 10 to 35 |
| Adjuster visit | 14 to 45 |
| Estimate received | 21 to 60 |
| First check (ACV) | 30 to 75 |
| Work scheduled | 45 to 120 |
| Work completed | 60 to 180 |
| Final invoice submitted | 61 to 181 |
| Depreciation released | 75 to 210 |
Regional hail outbreaks stretch every row of this table, so file early. Florida insurers must pay or deny within 60 days after notice of a claim unless factors beyond their control prevent it (Fla. Stat. 627.70131(7)(a)), while Texas sets a 15-day acknowledgment deadline under Insurance Code 542.055.
What If Your Claim Drags Past 60 Days
Many states set deadlines for acknowledging and deciding claims; Texas, for example, requires an insurer to acknowledge a claim within 15 days of notice (Texas Insurance Code 542.055, linked above). Check your state’s rules. If you are past 60 days with no estimate:
- Send a written demand for status via certified mail or email
- Call the adjuster’s supervisor
- File a complaint with your state Department of Insurance
- Consult a public adjuster or attorney if the delay continues
Regulatory complaints are a powerful lever. Carriers respond within days to a state DOI complaint that would otherwise have taken months internally.
Money-Saving Tips Across the Process
- Get 3 contractor estimates before signing, even on insurance work
- Pay attention to whether your contractor offers to “eat the deductible”; waiving or rebating a deductible is prohibited in several states, including Texas, Colorado and Florida
- Ask the contractor to itemize upgrades (e.g., ice and water shield, premium underlayment) so you can supplement the claim if needed
- Document any code-required upgrades; the standard ISO HO 3 form’s Ordinance or Law additional coverage allows up to 10 percent of the Coverage A limit for them, and some policies and endorsements offer more
- Save energy-efficiency or impact-resistance receipts; some homeowners qualify for tax credits or insurance premium reductions
For the underlying cost math on the new roof, see how much does a new roof cost or run our roof replacement cost calculator.
Choosing the Right Replacement Material
If your claim is approved, the carrier pays for “like kind and quality” replacement. You can upgrade out of pocket. If your current roof is asphalt and you want metal, the carrier pays the asphalt equivalent and you fund the difference. See metal vs asphalt shingle roof for the head-to-head.
FAQs
Do I need to get the roof inspected before filing a claim?
Strongly recommended. A contractor’s written inspection report before you file gives you a baseline scope that anchors the rest of the process. Without it, you are arguing the adjuster’s number against nothing. The cost is usually free for an estimate. See our guide on filing the inspection request properly.
Will my premium go up after filing a roof claim?
It depends on the carrier and the state. Some states limit surcharges for weather-related claims, regional premiums may rise after major storm years, and multiple claims in a few years can lead to non-renewal. Ask your agent before you file.
How long does a roof insurance claim take from start to finish?
Typical timeline is 60 to 120 days from storm to final check, including the work being completed. Simple claims with cooperative adjusters can wrap in 30 to 45 days. Disputed claims or post-major-storm claims can run 6 months or longer.
What is the difference between ACV and RCV on a roof claim?
RCV (Replacement Cost Value) is the full cost to replace the roof at today’s prices. ACV (Actual Cash Value) is RCV minus depreciation based on the roof’s age and condition. An 18-year-old roof with a 25-year expected life has lost about 72 percent of its value, so ACV is roughly 28 percent of RCV. Most RCV policies pay ACV up front and the depreciation portion after work is completed.
Can I keep the insurance check and not replace the roof?
You can keep the ACV portion if there is no mortgage requirement to complete the work. You cannot collect the recoverable depreciation portion unless work is actually done. If you have a mortgage, the lender often requires proof of completion before releasing funds at all.
Can the contractor file the claim for me?
Only in limited ways. Some states allow an assignment of benefits, but in Florida a post-loss assignment is void under policies issued on or after January 1, 2023, and other states restrict contractors from acting as your adjuster. Keep the claim in your name and pay the contractor directly. Your name and your control.
What happens if the adjuster’s estimate is much lower than my contractor’s?
Three steps. First, ask the adjuster to identify line-item differences. Second, file a supplemental claim with your contractor’s detailed estimate and photos. Third, if no progress, invoke the policy’s appraisal clause or hire a public adjuster. Well-documented line items give you the strongest case.
Should I hire a public adjuster?
For straightforward claims that are flowing through normally, no. The percentage fee is usually not worth it. For denied claims, low-balled claims, or claims that have stalled past 60 days, yes. The PA often nets you more after their cut than you would get on your own.