Learning how to choose a roofing contractor is the single most important step in any roofing project, and getting it wrong costs more than picking the wrong material, the wrong color, or the wrong install timing. A bad contractor can leave you with a leaky roof, a voided manufacturer warranty, an unpaid lien on your home, a workers comp claim, or an insurance dispute that drags on for years. A good contractor delivers a roof that outlasts the warranty period without a single emergency call. This guide is the 15-point vetting checklist we use to qualify roofers across all 50 states, plus the storm-chaser red flags, the cheapest-quote trap, and the Florida-specific items that come into play under the new AOB and assignment-of-benefits reform rules.
The short version
- Verify state license, $1M+ general liability insurance, and workers compensation insurance before signing anything. These three checks eliminate 80 percent of bad actors.
- Require manufacturer certification (GAF Master Elite, Owens Corning Platinum, CertainTeed SELECT, or equivalent) for the longest warranty protection.
- Get at least three written, itemized estimates with brand, model, color, mil thickness, underlayment, and labor broken out separately. Vague estimates are red flags.
- Storm-chasers with out-of-state plates, door-knock pitches, “today-only” pricing, or insurance-claim guarantees should be turned away on sight.
- The cheapest quote is almost never the right one; the right quote is usually the second or third cheapest from a contractor who scores well on the 15 points below.
The Short Answer: 15-Point Vetting Checklist
Before we drill into each point, here is the full checklist. Print this and use it as a scorecard. A qualified contractor should pass every point. A contractor failing two or more points should be off your list.
| # | Vetting point | Pass criteria |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | State license | Active license, on state contractor database, no recent disciplinary action |
| 2 | General liability insurance | $1M minimum, current COI naming you as cert holder |
| 3 | Workers comp insurance | Current, covers all subcontractors on your roof |
| 4 | Years in business / entity | 5-plus years, registered with Secretary of State |
| 5 | BBB accreditation | A or A-plus rating, no open complaints |
| 6 | Google reviews | 50-plus reviews, 4.5-plus stars, recent reviews within 90 days |
| 7 | Manufacturer certification | GAF Master Elite, OC Platinum, CertainTeed SELECT, or equal |
| 8 | Local references | 5-plus addresses within 25 miles you can drive past |
| 9 | Written, itemized estimate | Brand, mil, color, underlayment, labor broken out |
| 10 | Contract terms | No more than 10-percent deposit, no vague material spec |
| 11 | Permit process | Contractor pulls and pays for permit in their name |
| 12 | Workmanship warranty | 5 to 25 years on labor, separate from material warranty |
| 13 | Cleanup and disposal | Magnetic nail sweep, dump fees included, dumpster on site |
| 14 | Communication cadence | Daily progress updates, single point of contact named |
| 15 | Payment schedule | Deposit / mid-project / final, all tied to verifiable milestones |
Point 1: State License Verification
Almost every state requires roofing contractors to hold an active state license, and most state licensing boards publish a free online lookup tool. Florida licenses through the Department of Business and Professional Regulation (DBPR). California licenses through the Contractors State License Board (CSLB). Texas licenses roofers through individual municipalities and the Roofing Contractors Association of Texas (RCAT), since the state has no statewide license. North Carolina, Arizona, Georgia, and Tennessee all maintain searchable state contractor databases.
Pull the contractor’s license number, type it into the state database, and verify three things: license is active, no recent disciplinary actions, and the license type covers residential roofing. An expired or suspended license voids most manufacturer warranties and removes your legal recourse if the work fails. The lookup takes under two minutes and screens out roughly 30 percent of door-knock pitches.
If your state does not license roofers directly (Texas, Wyoming, Vermont, Maine, others), require a city or county business license, a sales tax permit, and proof of bonded contractor status.
Point 2: General Liability Insurance Proof
General liability insurance covers property damage your contractor causes on your home or on neighbors’ property. A roofer with no general liability who drops a bundle of shingles through your skylight, damages your siding, or starts a fire is uncovered, and you become the plaintiff in a lawsuit against an uninsured business that will likely vanish before judgment.
Require a current Certificate of Insurance (COI) with $1 million minimum per-occurrence and $2 million aggregate limits. Better contractors carry $2 million per-occurrence and $5 million aggregate. The COI should name you as certificate holder and should be issued directly by the contractor’s insurance carrier, not forwarded by the contractor. Email the carrier directly using the contact info on the COI to confirm coverage is in force and has not been cancelled. Coverage cancellations after the COI was issued are a common scam vector.
| Coverage type | Minimum acceptable | Better tier | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|---|
| General liability per occurrence | $1,000,000 | $2,000,000 | Damage to your home or neighbors |
| General liability aggregate | $2,000,000 | $5,000,000 | Annual cap across all jobs |
| Workers compensation | State statutory minimum | $1,000,000 employer liability | Worker injury on your roof |
| Commercial auto | $500,000 CSL | $1,000,000 CSL | Truck accidents en route |
| Tools and equipment | $25,000 | $100,000 | Theft from your site |
| Pollution liability | Optional | $1,000,000 | Spilled adhesives, blown insulation |
Point 3: Workers Comp Insurance
Workers compensation insurance is the most important and most-skipped coverage check. If a roofer falls off your roof and is injured, and the contractor does not carry workers comp, the homeowner becomes liable for medical bills, lost wages, and potential pain-and-suffering claims. Roofing has one of the highest workplace injury rates in construction per Bureau of Labor Statistics data, with falls accounting for roughly 35 percent of construction fatalities.
Require a current workers comp COI for every worker who will be on your roof, including subcontractors. Sole proprietors are exempt in most states but should still carry an accident and health policy. Ask explicitly: “If you sub out the tear-off, does the sub carry workers comp?” Get the answer in writing.
For homeowners in states with strict workers comp enforcement (California, Washington, Oregon, Massachusetts, New York), demand a Certificate of Workers Compensation Insurance from the state-level fund or carrier. For homeowners in opt-out states (Texas), require the equivalent occupational accident policy with at least $1 million in benefits.
Point 4: Years in Business + Business Entity Verification
The roofing industry has high turnover: roughly 40 percent of new roofing companies fail within five years per Roofing Contractor magazine industry surveys. A contractor with 5-plus years in business, especially under the same business entity name, has demonstrated operational durability. A contractor formed last quarter, with a brand-new LLC and a Facebook page, is statistically high-risk regardless of how good the pitch sounds.
Verify the business entity at your state’s Secretary of State website. Check the registration date, the registered agent, and the principal office address. A storm-chaser red flag is a registered agent in a different state from where the work is being done; a Texas LLC with a Wyoming registered agent offering roofing in Florida is structured for fast disappearance.
If the company has rebranded recently, ask why. Companies with prior names tied to BBB complaints, lawsuits, or state disciplinary actions often re-incorporate to escape the prior reputation. The state database will show prior business names tied to the same address.
Point 5: BBB Accreditation and Rating
BBB accreditation is not free or automatic; contractors pay annual fees and accept BBB complaint mediation. An A or A-plus rating, with the BBB accreditation seal current, signals that the contractor handles customer complaints in a structured way rather than ghosting unhappy clients.
Look at the BBB profile for three signals: total complaint count over the past three years, complaint resolution rate, and the type of complaints. A high-volume contractor will have some complaints; the right question is whether they were resolved. A contractor with 30 unresolved complaints over 36 months is a hard pass. A contractor with 50 complaints all marked resolved is normal for a high-volume operator and not disqualifying.
BBB is not the only signal. Cross-reference Angi (formerly Angie’s List), HomeAdvisor, and your state Attorney General’s consumer complaint database. Discrepancies between BBB clean and AG database active matter.
Point 6: Google Business Profile and Review Volume
Google reviews are the highest-signal source of homeowner feedback because they are tied to verified Google accounts and are harder to fake than third-party review platforms. Look for three things: review count over 50, average star rating at 4.5 or higher, and recent review velocity with multiple reviews in the past 90 days.
A contractor with 4.9 stars and 8 reviews is suspicious; a contractor with 4.6 stars and 240 reviews is high-confidence. Read the 3-star and 4-star reviews specifically, because those usually contain the most honest feedback about what went sideways. Read the contractor’s responses to negative reviews. A professional, specific response signals operational maturity. A defensive, accusatory, or absent response signals the opposite.
Watch for review velocity spikes: 40 five-star reviews posted in one week, often with similar phrasing and no identifying detail, indicate paid or fake reviews. Google has gotten better at filtering these but they still appear.
Point 7: Manufacturer Certifications
Major shingle manufacturers run certification programs that elevate qualifying contractors above the general installer base. The top three:
- GAF Master Elite: Top 2 percent of GAF-trained contractors in North America. Enables the Golden Pledge warranty (50 year non-prorated material, 25 year workmanship, 30 year against algae).
- Owens Corning Platinum Preferred Contractor: Top 1 percent of OC contractors. Enables the Platinum Protection Roofing System Limited Warranty.
- CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster: Highest CertainTeed credential. Enables the SureStart PLUS warranty (4 to 5 layers of coverage including workmanship up to 25 years).
For metal roofing, the comparable certifications are McElroy Metal, Englert, Drexel, ATAS, and the Metal Roofing Alliance Member program. For commercial single-ply, certifications come from Carlisle, GAF, Holcim Elevate, and Johns Manville and are typically required for the manufacturer’s no-dollar-limit warranty.
Certifications cost contractors money and require passing technical exams and maintaining install volume. A certified contractor has demonstrated commitment to the trade. Pull the manufacturer’s contractor locator directly and verify the certification is current.
Point 8: Local References You Can Drive To
Ask for the addresses of 5-plus completed jobs within 25 miles of your home, completed in the last 12 to 24 months. Drive past at least three. Look at the ridge line for sag, the valleys for flashing fit, the eaves for drip-edge installation, and the rake edges for clean cuts. Note whether the dumpster mark is still visible in the yard; if the lawn is destroyed at six months out, that contractor does not respect cleanup.
Call two of the referenced homeowners and ask three questions: Did the project finish on the quoted timeline? Did the final price match the estimate? Have you had any leaks or callbacks since? An evasive answer on any one of these is a tell.
A contractor who refuses to provide local references or provides references all out-of-state is a hard pass. Storm-chasers in particular will offer references from prior storm markets where the contractor will never return to honor warranty work.
Point 9: Written Estimate with Itemized Breakdown
A vague single-line estimate is the most common red flag in the roofing industry. “Replace roof: $14,500” tells you nothing and gives the contractor maximum flexibility to substitute cheaper materials, skip steps, or upcharge later. Require itemized line items including:
- Tear-off scope (number of layers, dumpster size, deck inspection)
- Decking replacement allowance (per sheet of OSB or plywood)
- Underlayment type and brand (synthetic, felt, ice and water shield)
- Shingle brand, model line, color, and warranty tier
- Flashing material (aluminum vs galvanized, new vs reused)
- Drip edge, starter strip, ridge cap brand and quantity
- Ventilation (ridge vent, soffit vent, gable vent, attic fan)
- Pipe boots, vent stack collars, skylight flashings
- Permit cost (separate line item)
- Labor (separate line item)
- Cleanup and magnetic nail sweep
- Workmanship warranty term
If three contractors provide itemized estimates and one provides a single number, the single-number contractor is either inexperienced or deliberately vague. Either way, pass.
For ballpark pricing context before getting estimates, see how much does a new roof cost and the roof replacement cost calculator.
Point 10: Contract Terms Review
The contract is the legal instrument that protects you. Read every line. Red flag items include:
- Deposit greater than 10 percent of project value (many states cap deposits at $1,000 or 10 percent, whichever is less)
- Material specifications listed as “or equivalent” without a maximum substitution clause
- Indemnification clauses making you liable for contractor injuries or third-party damage
- Mandatory binding arbitration in a distant state (preventing you from filing in local small claims court)
- Mechanic’s lien language that allows lien filing even after final payment
- Insurance-claim assignments where contractor takes power over your insurance settlement
- Vague timeline (“start within reasonable time”) rather than specific start and completion dates
- Change order language allowing unilateral price changes without your written consent
For larger projects (over $20,000) have a real estate attorney review the contract. The $300 to $600 review fee is the cheapest insurance available against a six-figure dispute.
Point 11: Permit Process
Almost every jurisdiction requires a building permit for residential roofing. The permit triggers a building department inspection, which is the only third-party verification that the work was done to code. A contractor who suggests skipping the permit is asking you to absorb their compliance risk; if the unpermitted roof leaks, fails inspection at sale, or causes structural damage, you carry the legal exposure.
The contractor should pull the permit in their name and pay for it as a line-item pass-through on your estimate. A permit pulled in the homeowner’s name shifts liability to you and is a red flag. Verify the permit was pulled by looking up your address in the municipal permit database, which most cities now publish online.
Watch for the city’s required inspections: usually a deck inspection after tear-off and a final inspection after shingle install. The contractor should coordinate inspections and provide you with the inspector’s sign-off documentation.
Point 12: Workmanship Warranty
There are two warranties on every roof: the material warranty from the manufacturer (typically 30 to 50 years for asphalt, 40 to 70 for metal, 20 to 30 for TPO and EPDM) and the workmanship warranty from the contractor. The manufacturer warranty covers product defect. The workmanship warranty covers install errors, which are the cause of roughly 70 percent of premature roof failures per NRCA field studies.
Require a written workmanship warranty of at least 5 years; 10 to 25 years is standard from top contractors. Read what is covered. A workmanship warranty that covers only “leaks at the field” but excludes flashing, valleys, penetrations, and ridge details is barely worth the paper. The right warranty covers all install-related defects on the entire roof assembly.
Verify the contractor has been in business at least as long as the warranty term. A 25-year workmanship warranty from a 3-year-old business is mostly aspirational; statistically, the business will not exist to honor year-15 callbacks.
Point 13: Cleanup and Disposal Protocol
Roofing creates 4,000 to 6,000 pounds of waste per typical home, plus thousands of nails that end up in your yard. The contractor’s cleanup protocol matters. Require:
- On-site dumpster sized to project (10 to 30 cubic yards typical)
- Tarps or plywood protecting landscaping, AC condenser, pool, and decking
- Magnetic nail sweep of yard, driveway, and street at end of each day
- Final magnetic sweep on project close
- Dump fees included in contract (not added as surprise upcharge)
The magnetic nail sweep is non-negotiable. Roofing nails in lawns and driveways cause flat tires for years afterward and injure children and pets. A contractor who treats cleanup as an afterthought treats the rest of the job the same way.
Point 14: Communication Cadence Expectations
Establish communication expectations in writing before the project starts. Name a single point of contact at the contractor (typically the production manager, not the salesperson). Agree on daily progress updates (text or email is fine), and a same-day response window for issues raised during install.
Ghosting is the most common homeowner complaint mid-project. The salesperson who closed the deal disappears, the production manager is unreachable, and the crew speaks limited English. Get the production manager’s direct cell number and confirm responsiveness before signing.
For any project over 3 days, ask whether the contractor will do a mid-project walkthrough with you to flag any decking surprises or deviations from spec. This is standard at top contractors and a useful signal of operational discipline.
Point 15: Payment Schedule
The payment schedule is where homeowners get burned most often. A bad contractor takes 50 percent upfront, buys materials with your money, and disappears partway through the job. The right schedule is tied to verifiable milestones:
| Milestone | Payment |
|---|---|
| Signing (deposit) | 0 to 10 percent (many states cap) |
| Materials delivered to site | 30 to 40 percent |
| Tear-off complete, deck repaired | 20 to 30 percent |
| Final completion + city inspection passed | 20 to 30 percent |
Many states limit roofing deposits explicitly. California limits home improvement deposits to 10 percent or $1,000 (whichever is less). Florida allows larger deposits but requires written contract terms specifying the schedule. Always pay by check or credit card, never cash. Credit card payments create a chargeback path if the contractor disappears. Cash creates none.
Sample Estimate Comparison Across Three Bids
To make the itemized-estimate concept concrete, here is a real composite of three bids we reviewed for a 2,400 square foot single-story home in suburban Atlanta in early 2026. All three bids covered tear-off of one layer of architectural shingle, install of new GAF Timberline HDZ, synthetic underlayment, new flashings, ridge vent, and city permit.
| Line item | Bid A (cheapest) | Bid B (middle) | Bid C (highest) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tear-off and disposal | $1,200 (bundled) | $1,650 | $1,900 |
| Decking replacement allowance | $0 (extra) | $300 (3 sheets included) | $500 (5 sheets included) |
| Synthetic underlayment | Generic, 2 layers | GAF FeltBuster | GAF Tiger Paw |
| Ice and water shield | Eaves only | Eaves + valleys | Eaves + valleys + penetrations |
| Shingle brand | “30-year architectural” | GAF Timberline HDZ | GAF Timberline HDZ |
| Flashing | Re-use existing | New aluminum | New galvanized |
| Ridge cap | Cut from field shingle | GAF Seal-A-Ridge | GAF TimberTex |
| Pipe boots | Generic rubber | Lifetime silicone | Lifetime silicone |
| Workmanship warranty | 1 year | 10 years | 25 years (GAF Golden Pledge) |
| Permit handling | Homeowner pulls | Contractor pulls | Contractor pulls |
| Total | $11,400 | $14,800 | $18,900 |
Bid A looks cheapest by $3,400 but quietly excludes decking, reuses old flashing, leaves the homeowner to pull the permit, and offers a 1 year workmanship warranty. Bid B is the right answer: real material spec, included decking allowance, contractor pulls permit, 10 year workmanship. Bid C is competent but priced for the Golden Pledge upcharge that most homeowners do not need. This pattern repeats across the country.
Storm-Chaser Red Flags
Storm-chasers are out-of-state contractors who descend on hail and hurricane markets immediately after major events. Some are legitimate; many are not. The pattern is: knock on door within days of storm, offer to inspect roof for free, claim significant damage, offer to “handle the insurance claim for you,” demand large upfront deposit, complete the roof at variable quality, vanish before warranty callbacks. Red flags include:
- Out-of-state license plates on the truck
- Door-knock pitch within 30 days of a major storm
- “Today only” pricing or “sign before we leave the neighborhood”
- “We’ll waive your deductible” (this is insurance fraud and illegal in most states)
- “We handle the insurance claim for you” or AOB (assignment of benefits) requests
- Refusal to provide local references
- Cash-only or wire-transfer payment requirements
- Generic company name with no local office or local phone number
- Pressure to climb on the roof immediately without a written estimate
If a contractor knocks on your door after a storm, the right answer is “thank you, I’ll call you after I get three local estimates.” Then never call. Anyone running a legitimate post-storm operation can wait 72 hours for you to do due diligence.
The Cheapest Quote Is Almost Never the Right One
Get three estimates. Discard the lowest and highest. Pick from the middle two based on the 15-point checklist above. This is the rule of thumb that has held up across thousands of homeowner outcomes.
The cheapest quote almost always comes from a contractor cutting corners somewhere: lower-grade shingles, thinner underlayment, skipped flashing, smaller crew, no permit, or no workmanship warranty. A $2,000 to $5,000 cost difference between the cheapest and middle quote usually buys $15,000 to $30,000 worth of additional roof life and risk protection. The math is overwhelmingly in favor of paying the middle quote.
The most expensive quote is also usually wrong, because it reflects either a contractor at maximum capacity who does not really want the work, or a high-overhead operation that prices for upmarket clientele. Unless you have specific reason to need the most expensive contractor (heritage home, exotic material, complex geometry), the middle quote wins.
If you are not yet sure you need a new roof at all, review signs you need a new roof first to avoid unnecessary work, and confirm timing with how long does a roof last.
Florida-Specific Considerations
Florida is the most regulated and most litigation-prone roofing market in the U.S., and several state-specific items now apply to every roofing project. The 2022 to 2025 assignment of benefits (AOB) reform overhauled the insurance-claim landscape. Under the new framework, contractors can no longer take direct assignment of your insurance benefits, which kills the “we handle the claim” pitch from out-of-state storm-chasers. See our deep-dive on the Florida AOB roofing reform for the full picture.
Florida-specific checklist items:
- Contractor must hold Florida DBPR license; verify at myfloridalicense.com
- Roofing-specific license types: Certified Roofing Contractor (CCC) or Registered Roofing Contractor (RC)
- Contractor must carry Florida workers comp or a valid exemption
- OIR Form 1802 wind mitigation inspection should be completed after install for insurance discount stacking
- Florida Building Code requires secondary water resistance (peel-and-stick) in HVHZ counties (Miami-Dade, Broward)
- 25 percent rule: if 25 percent of the roof requires repair, the entire roof must be brought to current code (this is being phased back under recent law, verify current status)
- AOB language must be reviewed line-by-line; do not sign any document granting the contractor authority over your insurance proceeds
For Florida homeowners filing insurance claims, get the carrier’s adjuster on site before signing any contractor agreement. The contractor and adjuster should walk the roof together when possible. Independent public adjusters can also help if the carrier and contractor disagree on scope.
FAQs
How many roofing estimates should I get?
Three is the standard. Two is the floor. More than four creates analysis paralysis and signals to contractors that you are not a serious buyer, which can make better contractors deprioritize you. Discard the cheapest and most expensive, then choose from the middle based on the 15-point checklist.
What is the typical deposit a roofing contractor asks for?
10 percent or less is standard and many states cap home improvement deposits at exactly that level. A contractor asking for 25, 33, or 50 percent upfront is signaling either cash-flow problems or fraud risk. The middle of the project, after materials are on site and tear-off is complete, is when the largest payment milestone should fall.
Should the roofing contractor pull the building permit?
Yes, in their name. A contractor pulling the permit in the homeowner’s name shifts code-compliance liability to you and signals the contractor may not be properly licensed in your jurisdiction. The permit fee should be a pass-through line item on your estimate.
How do I verify a roofing contractor’s insurance is real?
Request a Certificate of Insurance directly from the contractor’s insurance carrier, not forwarded by the contractor. Call the carrier using the phone number on the COI (not a number the contractor gives you) and confirm coverage is in force on today’s date. Cancelled-after-issuance is a common scam pattern.
What is the difference between a workmanship warranty and a material warranty?
Material warranty comes from the shingle or membrane manufacturer and covers product defects (usually 25 to 50 years). Workmanship warranty comes from the contractor and covers installation errors (usually 5 to 25 years). Install errors cause the majority of premature roof failures, so the workmanship warranty often matters more than the material warranty.
Are storm-chasers always bad?
No, but the base rate of problems is much higher than with local contractors. Some legitimate national contractors mobilize to disaster zones with proper licensing and insurance. The vetting checklist is the same: state license, insurance, workers comp, local references, written contract, no AOB, no large deposit. Most storm-chasers will fail one or more of those checks.
Can I save money by acting as my own general contractor and hiring roofers directly?
Almost never worth it for residential roofing. You assume permit liability, workers comp exposure, and warranty risk in exchange for 8 to 15 percent of project cost savings. A single workplace injury claim wipes out that savings 50 times over. Hire a licensed, insured, certified roofing contractor and treat the premium as risk management.