The 30-Point Roof Inspection Checklist: What a Real Inspection Actually Covers (Free Download)

By The Roofing Brief Team. Last reviewed: October 2026.

A real roof inspection checklist covers 30 points across six systems: shingles and field coverings, flashing and penetrations, edges and ventilation, gutters and drainage, structural deck and substrate (including roof strap and tie-down checks), and attic interior. A $150 to $650 professional roof inspection in 2026 should produce a written report covering every one of these 30 points, with photographs of each finding and a pass, monitor or repair call. Print the list and walk through it with your inspector, or use it for a pre-listing or post-storm self-inspection. For a sagging deck, see our sagging garage roof guide.

Why 30 points, not 10

Most roof inspections on the market cover 8 to 12 points: shingle condition, flashing, gutters, ventilation, and a generic “structural assessment.” That is enough to spot a roof that is visibly failing. It is not enough to catch the failures that happen in the first 24 months, where a small detail at the valley, drip edge, or attic ventilation cascades into a 10-year-shortened lifespan.

The 30-point checklist below is built so an inspector can score each point as pass, monitor, or repair, with a specific timeline attached. It is also designed to be used as a pre-purchase due-diligence document, a pre-listing seller’s disclosure attachment, or a post-storm insurance claim baseline. See our how to get a roof inspection guide for how to find and book the inspector, and signs you need a new roof for the visible failures that trigger an inspection in the first place.

System 1: Field shingles and roof covering (points 1-7)

1. Overall shingle condition. Visual inspection of the full field for cracking, curling, cupping, blistering, or hail damage. The inspector should note the percentage of shingles showing aging signs and the dominant failure mode. A roof at 50% curling is at end of life regardless of warranty.
2. Granule loss. Granule loss exposes the asphalt mat to UV, which accelerates aging. The inspector checks the field surface for bald spots and examines the gutters and downspouts for accumulated granules. Heavy granule accumulation in gutters is a top-three end-of-life signal.
3. Missing or displaced shingles. Count and location of missing shingles. A missing shingle in the field is a 24-hour repair item. A missing shingle on the ridge or hip is more urgent because of wind-uplift exposure.
4. Nail pop and exposed fasteners. Nail pops break the sealant strip and create water entry points. The inspector counts nail pops per slope and notes any exposed fasteners that should be re-sealed. The benchmark is IRC R905.2.5 and R905.2.6: corrosion-resistant nails with a 12-gauge shank and 3/8-inch head, long enough to go 3/4 inch into the sheathing, and at least four fasteners per strip shingle.
5. Sealant strip integrity. Each shingle has a heat-activated sealant strip that bonds it to the shingle below. Wind, age, or improper installation breaks the seal. The inspector lifts shingles in three to five locations to check the seal.
6. Algae, moss, and lichen growth. Algae streaks (black streaks) are cosmetic. Moss is structural. Moss roots between shingles lift the bottom edge and create water entry points. Lichen attaches firmly to granules and pulls them off on removal.
7. Storm and hail damage. Hail strikes leave circular bruises on shingles that fracture the mat under the granule layer. The inspector chalks each impact and counts strikes per 10-foot square. Carriers set their own hail-count thresholds, and the commonly quoted “8 to 10 hits per test square” is an industry rule of thumb, not a statute. See filing an insurance claim for roof damage.

System 2: Flashing and penetrations (points 8-13)

8. Chimney flashing. Step flashing on each side, counter-flashing into the masonry, and a cricket on the uphill side if the chimney is wider than 30 inches. The inspector checks for rust, gaps, missing sealant, and improper overlap. Chimney flashing failure is the most common roof leak source in the country.
9. Skylight flashing. Pre-formed flashing kit from the skylight manufacturer, with proper underlayment integration. The inspector checks the four sides and the top apron for sealant failure and lifted edges. Skylight leaks are second only to chimney flashing as a leak source.
10. Plumbing vent boot. Rubber or lead boot around each plumbing vent pipe. Rubber boots in high-UV climates crack at 8 to 12 years. The inspector checks each boot for cracking, splits at the pipe collar, and proper shingle integration. Lead boots last 30-plus years.
11. Attic ventilation boots and pipes. Each exhaust fan, attic vent, or bath fan vent through the roof has its own boot or curb. The inspector confirms each is sealed and counts any abandoned penetrations that should have been removed and patched.
12. Wall flashing (sidewall step flashing). Where a slope meets a wall, step flashing is installed shingle-by-shingle with counter-flashing or siding cover. The inspector checks for missing pieces, rust, and improper layering. IRC R905.2.8.3 calls for the step-flashing method against a vertical sidewall. A common shortcut is one continuous L-flashing instead of step flashing, which is a leak waiting to happen.
13. Valley flashing. Open valleys use a metal W-flashing or a continuous metal liner. Closed valleys use shingle weaving. The inspector checks for rust, debris damming, granule loss in the valley, and water-staining patterns that indicate splash-back leaks. Valleys carry more water than any other roof feature.

System 3: Edges and ventilation (points 14-19)

14. Drip edge at eaves. Drip edge is a metal flashing installed under the underlayment at the eaves and over it at the rakes. The inspector confirms drip edge is present on all eaves and rakes, with proper overlap into the gutter. Drip edge has been required at eaves and rakes under IRC R905.2.8.5 since the 2012 edition (check which edition your jurisdiction adopted), and missing drip edge is a top cause of fascia rot. See our drip edge guide.
15. Drip edge at rakes. Same as point 14 but on the gable rakes. Often missing on older or DIY-installed roofs. The inspector confirms presence and that the flange runs at least 2 inches back onto the deck, the R905.2.8.5 minimum.
16. Ridge ventilation. Continuous ridge vent or capped ridge vents at the peak of each slope. The inspector measures the net free area (NFA) and confirms it matches the intake NFA at the soffit. Imbalanced ventilation is the single biggest controllable lifespan factor for asphalt shingles. See attic ventilation.
17. Soffit ventilation (intake). Continuous soffit vent strip or individual soffit vents along the eaves. The inspector confirms intake area is at least equal to the ridge exhaust area. IRC R806.2 sets net free vent area at 1/150 of attic floor area, or 1/300 when 40 to 50 percent of it is high-vent area at least 3 feet above the eave vents. The inspector also checks for blocked vents (insulation pushed against the soffit from inside).
18. Gable vent or alternate ventilation. Some roofs use gable vents instead of (or in addition to) ridge and soffit vents. The inspector checks each gable vent for screen integrity, paint, and proper sizing. Mixing gable vents with ridge vents causes short-circuiting and is a code issue in some jurisdictions.
19. Fascia and rake board condition. The inspector checks the fascia board (behind the gutters) for rot, paint failure, and proper attachment of the drip edge. Soft fascia is a sign of long-term gutter overflow or missing drip edge. See fascia board.

System 4: Gutters and drainage (points 20-23)

20. Gutter attachment and slope. The inspector checks gutter hangers (spaced every 18 to 24 inches), the slope toward downspouts (1/4-inch per 10 feet), and any sagging sections. A sagging gutter pools water at the fascia.
21. Gutter cleanliness and debris. Accumulated debris causes overflow during heavy rain, which damages the fascia, foundation, and landscaping. The inspector notes the debris level and the presence of gutter guards. Granule accumulation specifically signals roof aging.
22. Downspout discharge. Downspouts should discharge at least 4 feet from the foundation, ideally into a splash block, extension, or underground drain. The inspector notes any downspouts discharging at the foundation, which is a basement-leak setup.
23. Gutter apron and back flashing. The metal that runs from the roof deck into the back of the gutter. Missing or improperly installed gutter apron allows water to wick behind the gutter and rot the fascia. The inspector checks for presence at every gutter section.

System 5: Structural deck and substrate (points 24-27)

24. Sheathing condition (from above). The inspector walks the roof and notes any soft spots underfoot, which indicate delaminated or rotted sheathing below. Soft spots require a deck replacement at the failing section.
25. Ridge line and roof plane straightness. The ridge line should be straight, the roof planes flat. Sagging ridge or wavy planes indicate structural issues with the rafters, ridge beam, or sheathing. A 1-inch sag over 10 feet is the threshold for further investigation.
26. Sheathing condition (from attic). The inspector enters the attic and inspects the underside of the sheathing for water stains, mold, nail oxidation, and rot. Each finding is photographed and located by approximate roof position.
27. Rafter, truss, and decking fasteners. The inspector checks for cracked or notched rafters, sistered repairs that look improvised, and decking nails that have rusted through.

Roof strap inspection: roof-to-wall connections

A roof strap inspection checks the metal connectors that tie each rafter or truss to the wall top plate, the connection IRC R802.11 addresses as uplift resistance. Florida’s Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form (OIR-B1-1802) classifies the weakest connection as toe nails, clips, single wraps or double wraps, and a metal connector only counts above toe nails if every visible connector has at least three nails into the truss or rafter. The inspector photographs a connector at several trusses from the attic and records the weakest type found. IBHS research on wind uplift covers the shingle side of the same load path.

If the strap inspection finds	Then
Toe nails only at the top plate	Ask a framer or engineer about retrofit clips; this is the lowest class on the Florida form
Metal connectors with fewer than 3 nails	Treated as toe nails on the form; add nails or replace the connector
Rusted or loose straps	Replace before the next roof covering goes on
Straps present, 3+ nails each	Record as pass and photograph two or three locations for the file

System 6: Attic interior (points 28-30)

28. Insulation depth and coverage. The inspector measures insulation depth (R-value), notes any compressed sections (which lose R-value), and checks for insulation pushed against the soffit vents (which blocks intake ventilation). Most US climate zones target R-49 to R-60 in the attic.
29. Vapor barrier and air sealing. The inspector checks for a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation (climate-dependent) and looks for unsealed penetrations: bath fan vents, recessed lights, plumbing chases, electrical penetrations. Warm humid air leaking into the attic condenses on cold sheathing and causes mold.
30. Active leak or staining. The inspector looks for active leaks (wet sheathing, dripping water) and historical staining patterns (dried water marks). Each stain is photographed and traced to a roof feature above (chimney, valley, vent boot) if possible.

How a real inspection runs (the 90-minute walkthrough)

A complete 30-point inspection (for the full data set, see the 2026 Permit and Inspection Database) on a single-story 2,000 to 2,500 square foot roof takes 75 to 120 minutes. The split: 15 minutes for ground-level inspection (foundation, fascia, gutters, downspouts, ground-level view of slopes), 30 to 45 minutes on the roof itself (or drone equivalent), and 30 to 45 minutes in the attic. Two-story homes or complex roofs (multiple dormers, valleys, ridges) run 2 to 3 hours.

The inspector should photograph each point as they go and produce a written report within 48 to 72 hours. A real report runs 8 to 25 pages with 20 to 60 photographs. A one-page report with “roof in good condition” and no photographs is not an inspection, it is a marketing visit dressed as one.

What it costs in 2026

Standard residential roof inspection pricing in 2026:

Inspection type	Price range	Best for
Walk-on visual, single-story	$150-300	Pre-listing, post-storm, annual maintenance
Walk-on visual, two-story or complex	$300-550	Pre-purchase due diligence
Drone-only inspection	$200-500	Steep slopes, slate, tile, fragile roof types
Drone plus walk-on plus attic	$400-650	Insurance disputes, multi-system check
Infrared thermal imaging add-on	+$150-350	Suspected hidden moisture or leak source
Engineer’s letter (PE-stamped)	$500-1,200	Insurance dispute, code violation, lender requirement

Carriers differ on who may inspect: some accept an InterNACHI-certified or HAAG-certified inspector, some ask for a licensed roofing contractor, and a few require a licensed home inspector. Ask your carrier in writing before booking. For contractor-run inspections, see our hiring a roof installation contractor guide.

Drone vs walk-on: what the drone misses

Drone inspections are accurate for the field-shingle and edge points (1 through 18) when paired with high-resolution photography. They are also the safe option on slopes over 8/12, slate, tile, or wet roofs. What the drone misses without an attic walkthrough or close inspection: nail pop counts, sealant strip integrity (requires lifting shingles), structural deck soft spots (requires walking), and all attic-interior findings (insulation, vapor barrier, active leaks). The 2026 gold standard is drone for documentation plus walk-on at the critical features (chimney, valleys, ridge) plus full attic inspection.

Insurance and underwriting use

Some carriers request a dated roof-condition report when a policy renews on an older roof, and Florida insurers use the OIR-B1-1802 wind-mitigation form for premium credits. A clean report can support standard-rate coverage. A failing one can lead to non-renewal, a roof-surfacing exclusion (actual cash value only), or a required replacement, depending on the policy. See our actual cash value roof guide for what coverage downgrade looks like.

How to use this checklist as a homeowner

You can run a self-inspection on the points that are visible from the ground or attic without going on the roof: granule accumulation in gutters (point 2), visible missing shingles (point 3), algae streaking (point 6), gutter overflow staining on fascia (point 19), gutter slope and downspout discharge (points 20 to 22), all attic interior points (28 to 30). That gets you 8 to 10 of the 30 points without leaving the ground or going past the attic hatch.

For everything else, hire the inspection. A $250 inspection prevents a $25,000 surprise on a pre-purchase deal or a $5,000 leak repair from a missed flashing failure. The math is overwhelming in favor of the inspection. See how to get a roof inspection for the booking process.

What the report should include

A real inspection report has:

• Date of inspection, address, inspector name and certification number
• Roof system description: material type, approximate age, slope, square footage
• Item-by-item findings for each of the 30 points, with pass / monitor / repair status
• 20 to 60 photographs, each captioned and located on a roof diagram
• Recommended repair or monitoring timeline
• Estimated remaining lifespan with reasoning
• Any code violations or insurance underwriting concerns flagged

If the report you receive is missing any of these, ask the inspector to add them. A real inspector will. A marketing visit dressed as an inspection will not.

FAQ

How often should I get a roof inspection?

Every 3 to 5 years for a roof under 10 years old, every 1 to 2 years for a roof over 15 years old, immediately after any major hail, wind, or hurricane event in your area, and always before listing a home for sale.

Do I need an inspection if my roof looks fine from the ground?

Most roofs that fail in the first 10 years still look fine from the ground. The failures show up first at the flashing, ventilation, and edges, which are not visible from below. An inspection is cheap insurance against the failures you cannot see. For the full data set, see the 2026 State of Roofing Insurance report.

Can a roofing contractor do the inspection?

Yes, but they have a conflict of interest if they also want the replacement job. The cleanest setup is an InterNACHI-certified or HAAG-certified inspector who does not also sell replacements. The second-cleanest is a manufacturer-certified contractor (GAF Master Elite, Owens Corning Platinum) who has a reputation to protect. For the full data set, see the 2026 Roofing Contractor Industry Report.

Will insurance pay for the inspection?

Generally no, except after a covered loss event (hail, wind, hurricane) where the carrier may send their own adjuster. Pre-renewal inspections are usually out of pocket.

What if the inspection finds something I cannot afford to fix?

The inspection still gives you a documented baseline and a timeline. You can prioritize the urgent repairs and monitor the rest. See signs you need a new roof for the items that are repair-now versus replace-soon.

Bottom line

The 30-point roof inspection checklist covers six systems: field shingles, flashing, edges and ventilation, drainage, structural deck, and attic interior. A real inspection in 2026 costs $150 to $650, produces a written report with 20-plus photographs, and takes 75 to 180 minutes depending on roof complexity. Use this list to book the right inspection, audit the report you receive, and run a self-check on the 8 to 10 points visible from the ground and attic. For booking guidance see how to get a roof inspection, for the signs that trigger an inspection see signs you need a new roof, and for the contractor-vetting script after the inspection see questions to ask roofing contractor.